Sewing Pattern Symbols - What On Earth Do They Mean?

By Barbara Evans

The symbols marked on paper pattern pieces look to some of us like they have been written in a foreign language and can be somewhat bewildering.

Let me explain in simple terms what the most common symbols on the paper pattern mean.

Cutting Line. This is found on the edge of each pattern piece and often has a symbol of a pair of scissors. Cut out each paper pattern you need for your garment from the large paper sheet. Use paper scissors, not your good material scissors. Paper can blunt scissors quickly.

Stitching Line. This is the line to stitch along when joining fabric together
Seam Allowance. This is the width of fabric that extends between the stitching line and edge of the fabric or cutting line. The normal seam allowance is 1.5cm or 5/8in, but check your pattern seam allowance before stitching.

Directional Sewing. The stitching line is marked with small arrows showing you what way to stitch, eg. always stitch the skirt side seams from waist to hemline, the fabric will sit better and have a more professional look.

Grain line. This is a straight line with an arrow at one or each end.The strong or warp threads run parrallel to the selvage. The selvage is the woven edge of the fabric.

The weaker or weft threads run from selvage to selvage.The arrows at each end of the grain line must be the same distance from the fold or selvage. Many a garment has been sewn and "will not sit straight' because the grain lines are "off centre." There are also grain lines on the fold, on the bias (45o) and on the weft threads.

Dart Fold Line and Dart Sewing Line. Darts are a stitched fold of fabric tapering to a point and are used to shape the garment to fit the curves of the body. Fold the dart along the dart fold line and stitch along the dart sewing line and press. Press skirt and shoulder darts towards the centre and bust and elbow darts downwards.

Notches. Notches are diamond shapes situated along a seam line and are used to match seams together, eg. joining the centre back seam together. The notches are cut out in a diamond shape from the seam line.

Pattern Piece Name. Indicates the name of each pattern piece. Please get in the habit of having the pattern piece name facing upwards as you pin the pattern onto the fabric.

The Number. This indicates how many pieces to cut out, eg. Sleeve Cut 2.
Shorten and Lengthen Lines. These lines indicate the position to shorten and lengthen the pattern pieces.

Gathering Lines. These are usually broken lines beginning and ending with a notch. Gather between the notches.

Buttonhole Positions. These are the markings to stitch the buttonholes. Always try on garment first to check the buttonholes positions are in the correct place for you. Some of us like them a bit lower or higher.

When you have cut out the pattern and removed it from the fabric, always fold it up neatly and place back in the envelope. Attach a piece of the garment fabric onto the envelope so in months to come you will always know what pattern you used for what garment. Place patterns neatly in a storage box, they are expensive to purchase and we can be used time and time again.

I hope you have now untangled some of the strange markings, dots and dashes you will find on paper patterns so remember Sewing is fun, so be creative and in no time your wardrobe will be bulging with lovely designer clothes.

Happy Sewing and Enjoy your Day.

Barbara Evans
I have been sewing for nearly 40 years and have a NZ Diploma in Fashion Design and Pattern Drafting with Merit, have worked as a pattern maker, clothing cutter, a tailoress, taught sewing in a training intuition, helped many friends with the sewing problems and fixed their machines... and have stitched countless garments.
I have written an e-book called 'Sewing Easy' which is a valuable sewing course crammed full of easy, practical methods with loads of diagrams. In it I take you by the hand and show you how to sew, create your own clothes and make your own gifts in a Sewing Easy way.
For more information please visit http://www.sewingeasy.com where you will also find a free monthly Sewing Easy Ideas Bulletin for you to download, which is full of great ideas and sewing hints.
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